Description:
Learn to draft and sew a corselet or bustier. While the corselet is used as an inner layer of a garment to provide support, a bustier is an outer garment, flattering to all figures and ages. It can be worn alone, under a jacket or over a tee. It can dress up (silk, satin, velvet) or dress down (denim, tweed, suede) your outfit. We will apply bones to counteract gravity and prevent wardrobe malfunctions.
We’ll begin with an introduction to the class, reviewing the materials needed and explaining the differences between a corselet (interior garment) and bustier (exterior garment) and the different materials used to construct each.
Using your moulage or bodice sloper as a starting point , we will draft the pattern with various necklines for your bustier or corselet. (The draft for both is the same.) You'll make a test, or muslin, to check and adjust the fit. You’ll then learn all the sewing techniques needed to complete the garment.
Supplies for both:
A copy of your moulage (or bodice sloper)
Tape measure
Ruler and square, or gridded transparent ruler at least 18” long (here’s an example - see the 2” X 18” size)
Drafting curve (here’s Lynda’s favorite)
Paper for drafting (available in art or office supply stores, just make sure it’s at least 36” wide and copy paper weight)
Scotch tape
Pencils and erasers (colored pencils as well)
Pins
Medium weight muslin, unwashed
Petersham or grosgrain for waist stay
Other supplies will be discussed in the class, including boning
Supplies for bustier only:
Coutil (enough for 1 layer from top of bust to the high hip)
Fashion fabric (same as above)
Lining fabric of your choice (examples: silk charmeuse, cotton, rayon)
Separating zipper (best to wait until draft is complete to purchase this)
Supplies for corselet only:
Cotton batiste or a lightweight cotton, enough for 1 layers from top of bust to the high hip)
Hook and eye tape
Techniques:
Preparation of a pattern to make a bustier
Fitting of a test garment and adjustments to the pattern
Construction of inner layer
Coutil with lining/stay-stitch/tape upper front
Fitting the coutil inner layer
Bone channel placement
Adding a waist stay/buttonholes
Construction of the outer layer of the bustier
Adding underlining
Easing/reducing bulk
Attaching the two layers
Added options; piping/beading/ruffles/trims
Finishing techniques
Stay closure/zipper/clean finish/binding
About Lynda's Classes
DURATION: Lynda's classes meet weekly for 6-weeks ($250) or 8-weeks ($295).
ONLINE/ZOOM: Each 1 1/2 meeting is live, on Zoom and all class meetings are recorded. The link to the recording is sent out at the end of each class and it is available to students for 8 weeks. All class times are noted for Pacific Standard Time (PST).
INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS: As part of each class, Lynda also shows instructional videos, which students will have access to after class. These links do not expire
CLASS SIZE: 12 students in classes that include fitting, 15 students in all other classes
INSTRUCTOR ACCESS: Students will have access to Lynda during class and via email between classes. She is available for private lessons if you need that extra instruction.